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Viajeros probándose finos sombreros de paja toquilla en una tienda familiar de Montecristi

Costa y mar

Manabí, la tierra de Allyson: sombreros, barro y lodo

Dos días en la costa natal de Allyson con la gente que le da vida: tejedores de sombrero de paja toquilla en Montecristi y Pile, alfareros en La Pila, talladores de tagua y un baño de lodo sulfuroso con la comunidad de Agua Blanca.

La historia

El verdadero hogar del Panama hat

El mundo lo llama Panama hat, pero siempre se ha tejido aquí, en Manabí, con las hojas de la palma de toquilla. Allyson creció en esta costa. Este viaje va de casa en casa para conocer las manos detrás de sus artesanías, y después se quita el polvo en una laguna de lodo sulfuroso tibio.

  1. Día 1 · mañana

    La paja antes de ser sombrero

    Todo empieza con una hoja de palma. En un pueblo a las afueras de Montecristi ves cómo las fibras de toquilla se separan, se hierven y se cuelgan a secar en tendederos de caña hasta que toman el color de la arena. La familia te cuenta cuántas semanas toma un sombrero fino, y por qué la UNESCO declaró este tejido patrimonio cultural inmaterial de la humanidad.

    Paja toquilla secándose en tendederos de caña en un pueblo de la costa
  2. Día 1 · mediodía

    Un tejedor de Pile, inclinado sobre la horma

    En Pile, los tejedores trabajan en las horas frescas, inclinados sobre una horma de madera, con la paja siempre húmeda para que no se quiebre. Los sombreros más finos de aquí son tan apretados que parecen de lino. Te sientas junto a un maestro el tiempo que quieras, le preguntas de todo y aprendes a reconocer un buen tejido mirándolo a contraluz.

    Un maestro tejedor trabajando en un fino sombrero de paja toquilla
  3. Día 1 · tarde

    Un barro que recuerda a los manteños

    La Pila es un pueblo de alfareros. Las familias moldean vasijas y figuras inspiradas en la cultura manteña y en otras culturas costeñas más antiguas, y algunas te ponen el barro en las manos frente al torno. Al lado, las semillas de tagua, el ‘marfil vegetal’ de la costa, se tallan en cuentas y animalitos. Compras directamente a quienes los hicieron.

    Un alfarero moldeando una vasija de barro en un taller al aire libre
  4. Día 2 · mañana

    Lodo, azufre y un museo de pueblo

    Dentro del Parque Nacional Machalilla, la comunidad de Agua Blanca cuida un sitio arqueológico manteño y un pequeño museo con lo que hicieron sus antepasados. Luego, la laguna: lodo gris sulfuroso que te untas en la piel, dejas secar al sol y te quitas en agua tibia. Todos se ríen de todos, y tu piel te lo agradece.

    Viajeros cubiertos de lodo sulfuroso en la laguna de Agua Blanca
  5. Día 2 · almuerzo

    Viche en una mesa familiar

    Manabí cocina con maní y plátano como en ningún otro lugar del Ecuador. El almuerzo es viche, una sopa espesa de maní y mariscos, tonga envuelta en hoja de plátano y patacones con salprieta. Después, las lanchas de pescadores en Puerto López, o la playa, o una siesta: al fin y al cabo, es la costa.

    Una cocina familiar manabita con viche y tonga sobre la mesa

Tu día

A donde te lleva el pajarito

  1. Pueblo de paja toquilla cerca de MontecristiDe la hoja de palma a la fibra
  2. MontecristiTiendas familiares de sombreros
  3. PileUn maestro tejedor trabajando
  4. La PilaAlfareros y talladores de tagua
  5. Agua Blanca, Parque Nacional MachalillaMuseo manteño y laguna de lodo sulfuroso
  6. Puerto LópezAlmuerzo, lanchas de pescadores y la playa

De esto nos encargamos

  • Un guía local de la costa, en inglés o español
  • Transporte privado por la costa de Manabí
  • Visitas coordinadas directamente con familias artesanas
  • Visita guiada por la comunidad y baño de lodo en Agua Blanca

Bueno saber

  • Lo que compras va directo a quienes lo hacen; un sombrero fino toma semanas de tejido, así que el precio lo ponen ellos
  • Lleva traje de baño y una toalla vieja para el lodo
  • Combínalo con la temporada de ballenas (de mayo a septiembre) o con la Isla de la Plata

Sobre los precios

Cada experiencia se arma para tu grupo: primero conversamos y luego te enviamos una propuesta hecha para ti. Sin paquetes fijos.

Reseñas reales

Viajeros en esta experiencia

18 reseñas mencionan esta experiencia; todas se citan tal como se escribieron, en la plataforma donde se dejaron.

What a wonderful tour! Allyson was a pleasure and so knowledgeable about the food, culture, and history of beautiful Guayaquil! I requested a custom tour that was food-centric and Allyson was quick to accommodate. We visited a local food market, Mercado de sauces, (unbelievable ceviche!), did a chocolate tasting with Artist/artisan chocolatier Patricia Leon (incredible, unique experience!), and toured the parks and river walk of Guayaquil. I highly recommend Allyson and cannot wait to return to Ecuador!

Mark F. · United States

On time pick up from our hotel. Tour around the highlights of the city. Guide was very knowledgeable and personable but the city itself is just not that scenic.

Trevor R. · United States

Wir hatten einen sehr schönen Tag mit Allyson. Bereits im Vorfeld war Allyson sehr kommunikativ und der Ausflug selbst war bestens organisiert. Vielen Dank Allyson gerne wieder.

Klaus W. · Germany

Alyson is an excellent guide. Her English is top notch & knowledge of the city & the country’s history is masterful. In addition she is a very nice person that we enjoyed interacting with.

Stephen E. · United States

What a fabulous day! Allyson was a terrific guide. She listened to our requests and made sure we were safe and well taken care of all day. The mercado experience was truly amazing. We got a great snap shot of Quayaquil and excellent food. Thanks again for a wonderful day!

Kathleen R. · United States

Lilian was an awesome guide. She arrived on time, stayed long enough to cover everything we wanted to do and did not rush us. She walked with us to all the places on our list and had the cards for the Aerovia cable car to make it easy to purchase the tickets. She told us about which places were safe and kept us away from places that were not safe. She even took us to a great souvenir shop and helped us with the shopping. She went out of the way to recommend vegan restaurants we should try! She also told us of a safe walking route to go see the giant monkey statue (Estatua Del Mono Machín) within walking distance of the hotel but in the median of the Juan Javier Marcos y Aguirre road on the way to the airport. Every attraction on our list was a hit and worthy of the visit - the 444 steps through Las Penas neighborhood to El Faro, the lighthouse, the cable car ride from Malecon to Duran and back to Cathedral, the nearby Cathedral, the Iguana park on the way to the Municipal building and the plaza in front, the Art University all opposite the Malecon, the semicircle Rotonda monument and the 2 things we did on our own - the walk to the giant monkey statue (Estatua Del Mono Machín) and the evening walk along the Malecon near our Wyndham Santa Ana hotel. Remember to wear full sleeves and long pants to stay safe from the bugs near the river eager for human blood as you walk the Malecon in the evening or sit out to eat an eatery off Malecon.

Sightseer788980

We have been on a number of Tours by Locals outings. Before going into specifics, we’ll start by saying that the tour we had with Allyson Aleman on Guayaquil, Ecuador was easily the most enjoyable, informative, and rewarding tour we’ve ever had. Guayaquil is one of the two main jumping-off points for the Galapagos Islands, the other being Quito. Guayaquil may be less well known, but as far as we are concerned, it is absolutely not to be missed. And Allyson is the guide you want to have. She has lived here her entire life, loves the city and its environs, and is incredibly well-connected. We spent an entire day roaming around, and we lost count of how many times people on the street greeted her or were greeted by her, waved to her, shouted out to her: she seems to know everybody in this city of 3 million! This personal connection played great dividends, because she was easily able to get us into any place she wanted to show us because, well, she knows everybody! Our day began with a tour of Guayaquil’s beautiful Municipal Cathedral. We were able to get a rare inside look of a gallery hidden in the walls that encircles the structure high up above the floor, on the back side of stained glass windows depicting over 100 saints. Afterwards we strolled through parks and other sites where Allyson pointed out statues of important figures and gave a us a great overview of Ecuador’s history. We ended up at the waterfront (on the Malecon) and had a look into the fascinating Museum of Archeology and Modern Art, before sitting down for a wonderful lunch at a fine restaurant right by the river. A stop for some of Ecuador’s excellent coffee followed. After strolling through some older neighborhoods we took a cable car ride across the water to have a look at the communities on the other side. We finished our day back at our hotel. Even though the tour was described as 6 hours, Allyson spent well over 7 hours with us. While she offered us rides from place to place, we are walkers and were happy to do all of our exploring on foot. Ecuador is reknowned for its Cacao farms and the chocolate that they produce, and Allyson mentioned that she was available the following day if we were interested in an excursion to one. We immediately agreed, and we were treated to a ride out of the city to Finca Cumanda, a small farm run by Roddy and Alexandra, a couple who are justly proud of what they have built. They showed us the entire chocolate making process (and they let us help!), from hacking open the cacao fruit, extracting and drying the beans, separating and roasting the nuts inside, and finally processing all the way to amazing bars with complex flavors—nothing like the Nestle’s back home! We always thought that Belgian chocolate was the best in the world. The fact is, the Belgians have come here to learn how it’s done! Afterwards Roddy and Alexandra treated us to a delicious traditional lunch, entirely from the farm’s produce. Then back to our hotel, after another amazing day with Allyson Aleman.

Carrie Schore

Allyson is an awesome tour guide as was the tour she created for us. Our tour was for 10 people who all flew into Guayaquil on different days and times. She was very accommodating and patient as we tried to determine the best tour and time. The chocolate tasting was very special and I highly recommend that as part of your tour if it is available. Allyson is very passionate and knowledgeable about all things Guayaquil and chocolate. I highly recommend her as a guide.

Tom A. · United States

61 reseñas en ToursByLocals, Tripadvisor, Google Maps, Viator y GetYourGuide.Abre los cinco pasaportes →

¿Lo planeamos?

Cuéntale a Allyson tus fechas y quiénes vienen. Ella responde en persona, normalmente el mismo día, con ideas y preguntas; la propuesta llega después.